Jessica McCormack brings a 1960s vibe to diamond jewellery with two groovy new collections - Telegraph.co.uk |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2019 12:00 AM PDT  It's always a treat getting an insight into a jeweller's creative process. To see what sparked an idea and how the designs evolved. Collections might spring from a surprisingly niche detail of design or architecture; a fleeting moment in nature; a trinket from the past - and a designer's sketchbook demonstrates the journey from that genesis to finished jewel. Jessica McCormack has always cast her net far and wide in search of inspiration. The New Zealand-born, Mayfair-based jewellery designer has reinterpreted Maori tattoos, urban architecture and ancient Chinese fortune-telling practices as precious diamond jewellery, these disparate beginnings brought together by her distinctive design signatures. The inspiration behind the first of her two new collections, Strike, is unmistakable. Juicy ruby droplets, vampishly framed in black gold, drip from bars of polished gold, plain or set with carré-cut diamonds.  These minimalist matchsticks top and tail one another around a cocktail ring, and cascade elegantly in chandelier earrings, their flaming tips dangling, connected by angular baguette-cut diamonds. The graphic lines of these bejewelled matchsticks were taken from advertising found on vintage matchboxes in the 1950s and '60s; several examples appear on the moodboard for the range. It's a rare pop of colour for McCormack, whose collections usually focus on white diamonds, but it's recognisably her work, thanks to the traditional Georgian setting techniques that have become her signature.  McCormack's personal favourite from the collection sees a single matchstick wrapping the wrist as a crisp bangle. "I love the clean lines and its independence - there's no need to stack a bracelet like this," she says. "It's strong enough to wear on its own." Vintage graphic design also helped spark her second collection of the season, Superdelic. Where Strike is all minimalism and sharp angles, Superdelic is altogether softer and more playful. The fluffy clouds and rainbows of 1960s pop art become billowing clusters of diamonds, set once again in vintage-inspired blackened gold.  These sparkling clouds clamber up the ear, or float on the lobe, suspending cleverly articulated loops of diamonds: rainbows rendered in monochrome. One pair of oversized hoop earrings was designed, says McCormack, with "a glamorous hippy with big hair, wearing rollerblades" in mind. The candyfloss curves of cumulus clouds are depicted in a billowing gold cocktail ring, while a smaller ring hugs the finger with a double rainbow, as if reflected in a fantastical lake.  More minimalist earrings trail an arch of pavé-set diamonds around a single stud and back down to almost touch the shoulders. "These are jointed in 35 places so they move and dance, but they're so light you can wear them anywhere," says McCormack. Her sources of inspiration may be dissimilar, but that versatility is at the centre of everything the designer creates. "I love the idea of wearing jewellery for breakfast, on the school run, in a board meeting and then while drinking tequila and dancing on the tables," she says. "My ultimate goal is to make sure that jewellery is hugely worn and hugely loved." Sign up for the Telegraph Luxury newsletter for your weekly dose of exquisite taste and expert opinion. |
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